Beyond Enthusiasm...MacKay's "Beyond the Silhouette"

If you are in love with Lucy Johnston’s “Nineteenth-Century Fashion in Detail” (London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 2005) like I am, M. Elaine MacKay’s “Beyond the Silhouette: Fashion and the Women of Historic Kingston”( Kingston: Agnes Etherington Art Center/Queen’s University, 2007) has brought the study of historic fashion design from the reign of British dress historians to Canada.

This book which was intended to compliment an exhibition of the same name which ran from 22 July 2007-6 April 2008 at the Agnes Etherington Art Centre at Queen’s University in Kingston highlights garments from the Queen’s University Collection of Canadian Dress. MacKay's work stands on its own as a fascinating essay on how by tracing the history of fashion, one can better understand the lives of not only the fashionable elite, but those whose employment relied on the dress-making trade. Filled with beautiful images detailing the meticulous work that went into creating these works of art, this book offers an insightful (and pleasurable) visual history of design.

One of my colleagues popped this book in my mailbox and I am so happy she did! Although, I have to admit I have a bias towards M. Elaine MacKay. She was a fabulous professor of mine at the Dalhousie University Department of Costume Studies and responsible for introducing me to the many sources available for studying historical pattern making. “Beyond Silhouette” is pure inspiration for scholars interested in pursuing the growing field of Canadian fashion history.

***Other interesting connections to this fashion history collection are that Dr. Margaret Angus, a well-known Kingston historian and supporter of local heritage was responsible for gathering the garments during her position as Costume Mistress in the Drama Department at Queen’s University. Dr. Isabel Bader, who also has a passion for historic fashion and her husband Alfred were responsible for supporting much of the curatorial work that has been done on the collection. The Bader’s have provided much support to Queen’s University over the years including the purchase of Herstmonceux Castle which is now the home of Queen’s International Study Centre in the UK. Not far from the castle, the Bexhill Museum of Costume and Social History, which houses another collection of beautiful dress was founded by Dr. Isabel Bader.